What is the deal this year?? It seems like one member of our family is sick at least once a month. If I remember correctly, it was only last month that the girls had a tummy bug, finally passed it to Michael (surprisingly), and then Corinne ended up with an ear infection. This month I guess it is my turn…as I sniffle, cough, and reach for the tissues- thank goodness for Kleenex with lotion! The girls are still taking their vitamins and I’ve increased their fluid intake, as well as the frequency of (everyone’s) hand washing. Now, we wait and see…

While I’m on the topic of being sick…gas prices! Perhaps it’s the coupon/bargain/(I like to say financially responsible) side of me that makes me want to loudly question: what’s THAT about?! The lowest in our area, as of today, is $3.14 per gallon (information from mapquest gas, as well as from my own observations). For those of you who THINK you have the highest gas prices, Gasbuddy has a gas temperature map that will show you where you really rank. I for one have made it a point to venture out only when necessary: Mondays & Thursdays when Lilli has gymnastics and either Saturday or Sunday for church. It’s on those days that I’ll complete my errands, rather than saving them for a day I wouldn’t normally go out, thus saving gas…and saving $$ Remember, it takes me about 20-25 minutes to get “into town.” That’s a lot of gas!

My hubby has also informed me of some other fuel saving tips:
1) Drive the speed limit: the faster you go, the more fuel you burn…besides, who wants a speeding ticket?!
2) Drive with the windows up: the wind causes a drag and creates resistance.
3) Maintain your car!!!!: regular tire rotations, alignments, oil changes, air filter replacements…do I sound like I know what I’m talking about yet?? Taking proper care of your auto can prevent future problems. (Sort of like going to the dentist…nobody really wants to go, but what would happen if the doc didn’t see & fill that cavity? Ouch!)

For those of you in the Winchester area, I’d recommend taking your car to Marrow’s Auto Repair. But I’m probably biased, since he does our car work…and he’s our awesome neighbor

There isn’t much to most 50s so to winterize them all you usually need to do is change the oil and then start it every couple of weeks throughout the winter. Because the TTR50 is electric start you’ll need to remove the battery and hook it to a battery tender so it doesn’t loose its charge.

Things you’ll need:

• 10mm socket or wrench
• Phillips screwdriver

If you look under the rear fender you’ll see 2 10mm bolts. Use your 10mm socket or wrench and remove them but be careful not to loose the spacers that are attached. 906

Once the 2 bolts are removed you can lift the rear fender up several inches and pull it straight off the back of the bike. 916

At this point you should see the battery covered by a plastic shroud. There are 2 Phillips head bolts that hold the shroud in place; you’ll need to use your screwdriver to remove them. 920

There is also a rubber grommet that sticks through a hold in the shroud. You can pull the shroud off of the bike without worrying about breaking anything. You can see the rubber at the bottom left of the shroud in this picture: 924

Put your fingers behind the rubber strap and lift the silver loop off of the vertical post holding it. 928

Now just remove the battery. 932

So we’re well into December and I’m just now getting around to winterizing Lilli’s dirtbike. I suppose global warming isn’t all bad.
I’ve always been one to do things myself and motorcycle maintenance is no different. For the purposes of this TTR50 Oil Change Tutorial I did call a couple of stealerships in the area and found that it is ~$100.00 for an oil change… hopefully this will save someone a buck or two.

Things you’ll need:

• 1 Quart Yamalube 10w30 motor oil
• Something to Catch the used oil in (oil container, old tupperware, whatever).
• 12mm Socket, or wrench
• About 10 minutes

Prep:
The oil change process is really simple and can be done in about 5 minutes. Start off by gathering all of your materials and placing your used oil container under the left footpeg like I have done here:858

Here’s a closeup of the Oil Drain Plug:864

Take your 12mm Socket (or wrench) and open the drain a few turns (the oil won’t begin flowing from the engine until the plug has been completely removed). 884

It’s a good idea to use your hand to finish removing the plug because there’s a washer behind it that you don’t want to drop into your used oil container. 872

To speed the drain process up let’s go ahead and remove the Oil Filler Cap. If it’s too tight to remove by hand a crescent wrench works well. 868

Here’s a shot of the oil flowing from the drain. Since the engine only holds one quart of oil the drain process should only take a moment. 876

Once the oil has stopped flowing take a clean rag and clean the area around the drain plug. To close the drain reverse the process you used to take it off. Be sure to place the washer onto the bolt before you reinstall it.

The only thing left is to add the oil to the engine. A small funnel would be helpful but if you don’t have one you can use the dipstick that’s attached to your oil filler cap to make a small hole in the foil seal: 888

The only thing left to do is pour 1 quart of oil into the oil filler hole and then thread the oil filler cap back into the oil filler hole. 892 900