In my earlier entry “It’s a Girl!” I was working on gettin the new track weapon road ready track ready. I finally managed to get her put back together and was even able to put about a hundred miles on her before she was tucked away into the stable for the winter.

I still have plenty of things to do though… I need to remove all of the stock plastic and replace it with some armour bodies skins… add a steering stabilizer, install some new frame sliders, and pick up a new oil filter. I’m confident I’ll have the bike done for the 2008 season.
She’s currently got a Graves full exhaust system (titanium), PCIII USB, removed AIS system, braided stainless steel brake lines, Pirelli supercorsas, 520 conversion w/DID ERV3 chain, modified gearing, Woodcraft rearsets & Frame Sliders, etc.

For those that are intersted here are some updated shots of the bike:

There isn’t much to most 50s so to winterize them all you usually need to do is change the oil and then start it every couple of weeks throughout the winter. Because the TTR50 is electric start you’ll need to remove the battery and hook it to a battery tender so it doesn’t loose its charge.

Things you’ll need:

• 10mm socket or wrench
• Phillips screwdriver

If you look under the rear fender you’ll see 2 10mm bolts. Use your 10mm socket or wrench and remove them but be careful not to loose the spacers that are attached. 906

Once the 2 bolts are removed you can lift the rear fender up several inches and pull it straight off the back of the bike. 916

At this point you should see the battery covered by a plastic shroud. There are 2 Phillips head bolts that hold the shroud in place; you’ll need to use your screwdriver to remove them. 920

There is also a rubber grommet that sticks through a hold in the shroud. You can pull the shroud off of the bike without worrying about breaking anything. You can see the rubber at the bottom left of the shroud in this picture: 924

Put your fingers behind the rubber strap and lift the silver loop off of the vertical post holding it. 928

Now just remove the battery. 932

So we’re well into December and I’m just now getting around to winterizing Lilli’s dirtbike. I suppose global warming isn’t all bad.
I’ve always been one to do things myself and motorcycle maintenance is no different. For the purposes of this TTR50 Oil Change Tutorial I did call a couple of stealerships in the area and found that it is ~$100.00 for an oil change… hopefully this will save someone a buck or two.

Things you’ll need:

• 1 Quart Yamalube 10w30 motor oil
• Something to Catch the used oil in (oil container, old tupperware, whatever).
• 12mm Socket, or wrench
• About 10 minutes

Prep:
The oil change process is really simple and can be done in about 5 minutes. Start off by gathering all of your materials and placing your used oil container under the left footpeg like I have done here:858

Here’s a closeup of the Oil Drain Plug:864

Take your 12mm Socket (or wrench) and open the drain a few turns (the oil won’t begin flowing from the engine until the plug has been completely removed). 884

It’s a good idea to use your hand to finish removing the plug because there’s a washer behind it that you don’t want to drop into your used oil container. 872

To speed the drain process up let’s go ahead and remove the Oil Filler Cap. If it’s too tight to remove by hand a crescent wrench works well. 868

Here’s a shot of the oil flowing from the drain. Since the engine only holds one quart of oil the drain process should only take a moment. 876

Once the oil has stopped flowing take a clean rag and clean the area around the drain plug. To close the drain reverse the process you used to take it off. Be sure to place the washer onto the bolt before you reinstall it.

The only thing left is to add the oil to the engine. A small funnel would be helpful but if you don’t have one you can use the dipstick that’s attached to your oil filler cap to make a small hole in the foil seal: 888

The only thing left to do is pour 1 quart of oil into the oil filler hole and then thread the oil filler cap back into the oil filler hole. 892 900

Taking the R1 out on the track was just asking for trouble so I added another bike to the stable! The deal was just too good to pass up and it was an opportunity for me to take on another “project”.

The kid I bought the bike from was attempting to pass someone in an acceleration lane and ran out of road. He hit a curb at about 40MPH, flipped the bike onto some grass, and slid down the road a little ways. Surprisingly his insurance company didn’t total the bike but cut him a check for almost $8,000. I picked her up for $1,000 and the rest is history!

The damage included:

• Broken Fairing Stay
• Broken Subframe
• Broken Lower Tripple Tree
• Bent Upper Tripple Tree
• Bent Forks

The plastic has several cracks and has got some major rash but I don’t really care. I wrapped in in electrical tape to hold it together until I get can get some Armour Bodies race plastic.